Rock Steady - Best Tripods For Binoculars & Spotting Scopes
As a corollary to the post titled "World Class Glass" (I received several hundred hits from the "best binoculars" search phrase in the last several days so this is obviously a popular subject) I want you to know what we are using for tripods because it is such an important part of a solid optics set up. Whether you are watching big game, surveilling bad guys or searching for a lost hiker, a quality tripod, head and high end optics will make your job a lot easier.
If you are using a set of binoculars with a magnification greater than 10x for any length of time you need a tripod. Trust me. Being a minimalist, I fought this for a long time. I thought that I could do it without "the hassle" of schlepping a mechanical contraption along with me. My brother and I would be hid on a hillside glassing. He would be using a good tripod and me without. The bottom line was that he was just more effective at finding the elusive "Grey Ghosts" in Arizona's rugged mountains. He could see the twitch of a tail or the flick of an ear that would give them away. This was partly because he is just dam good at it and partly because he could comfortably sit there for hours behind a high power set of glasses systematically scanning the mountain sides, bumping the glasses from one imaginary grid to the next with his nose. When he was done looking at the side of a mountain he could confidently say he had cover it all. Meanwhile I had to use a lower magnification to be steady and then I would get fatigued which meant I would have to put the glasses down to rest loosing my place in the process. The vicious cycle of up and down wasted time, made too much noise and frustrated me to the point where I would just sit there. I tried lying down, using my pack as a rest, propping up against something, you name it, I tried it with no lasting success.
So being the stubborn knot head, I could not admit that I was wrong so I got a telescoping monopod made by Bogen (Manfrotto) and what was then called a Webster's Sure-Loc mounting bar. This set up was actually pretty effective for 8 and 10 power binoculars. It allowed me to plop down wherever and keep the glasses steady for much longer periods of time, it was much lighter than what Cody was "lugging" around and it was quick and pretty handy to walk with. However, when I would turn away to look around or give my eyes a break I would loose my place. And, when I found something and wanted to get another opinion on how it might score, I would have to verbally vector the other person in to exactly where I was looking which is a lot harder than it sounds. Cody would just lean out of the way and let me peek through his glasses. Simple.
So to make a long story short, I bought in to the whole tripod thing when I bought my Zeiss 15x60s. I couldn't justify spending that much money and not get the full use out of them. So in keeping with my SOP, I researched every tripod set up on the market then I made my purchase. I have been using this set up for several years and it works very well. It works even better with my Leica Duovids.
So being the stubborn knot head, I could not admit that I was wrong so I got a telescoping monopod made by Bogen (Manfrotto) and what was then called a Webster's Sure-Loc mounting bar. This set up was actually pretty effective for 8 and 10 power binoculars. It allowed me to plop down wherever and keep the glasses steady for much longer periods of time, it was much lighter than what Cody was "lugging" around and it was quick and pretty handy to walk with. However, when I would turn away to look around or give my eyes a break I would loose my place. And, when I found something and wanted to get another opinion on how it might score, I would have to verbally vector the other person in to exactly where I was looking which is a lot harder than it sounds. Cody would just lean out of the way and let me peek through his glasses. Simple.
So to make a long story short, I bought in to the whole tripod thing when I bought my Zeiss 15x60s. I couldn't justify spending that much money and not get the full use out of them. So in keeping with my SOP, I researched every tripod set up on the market then I made my purchase. I have been using this set up for several years and it works very well. It works even better with my Leica Duovids.
Here is what you will need. A good set of glasses, as we have already discussed, a very solid mount that connects the binos to the head, and an easy to move, high quality head that connects to the top of the tripod. Also, you may want to use a quick connect plate that goes between the head and the bino mount so you can quickly and easily switch from binos to spotting scope or range finder. You will need a plate for each. Here is what we are using and are pleased to recommend to you. Oh, all of this stuff is available from a little shop in Phoenix called The Outdoorsmans. These guys are users and they know what they are talking about. They carry the commercial stuff Like the Manfrotto but they also had some good ideas of their own which they manufacture and sell.
Manfrotto Monopod model 681B ($55)-This is a professional grade, lightweight, three section monopod. It weighs 1lb 8ozs and extends from a total length of 26 to 63 inches. If you are using a monopod I would suggest using the Sure- Loc bar which positively locks the binos down on to the mount with wide Velcro straps. You can get the Sure-Loc from the bow and arrow gurus at Archery Headquarters. They are made in two sizes. I like them for the smaller glasses but I have a buddy that uses the larger model for his big Zeiss and it works very well for him. This is my old set up which I still use if I want to be especially fast and light.
The Manfrotto Tripod model 3001BD ($130)-This is a professional grade, moderate weight, 3 section tripod with an extendable center post. It is highly adjustable, tall enough to stand behind and stout enough to stand up to the wind. The wind is an issue. You can find lighter tripods for sure but if there is any wind your sight picture is going to shake. As a devout "light is right" disciple I had to learn this lesson the hard way too. Those carbon fiber jobs work great in the store but in the field they are just too wispy. The 3001BD is the lightest aluminum model that Bogen makes. I also like the clamp style adjustments. They are easy to operate, hold their position and hold up to years of abuse. The 3001BD weighs 4.2lbs and extends from 21 to 58 inches with the center post. You can also make the 3001BD lighter by removing the extendable center post. This is what I was using until just recently and I was very pleased with it.
Manfrotto Monopod model 681B ($55)-This is a professional grade, lightweight, three section monopod. It weighs 1lb 8ozs and extends from a total length of 26 to 63 inches. If you are using a monopod I would suggest using the Sure- Loc bar which positively locks the binos down on to the mount with wide Velcro straps. You can get the Sure-Loc from the bow and arrow gurus at Archery Headquarters. They are made in two sizes. I like them for the smaller glasses but I have a buddy that uses the larger model for his big Zeiss and it works very well for him. This is my old set up which I still use if I want to be especially fast and light.
The Manfrotto Tripod model 3001BD ($130)-This is a professional grade, moderate weight, 3 section tripod with an extendable center post. It is highly adjustable, tall enough to stand behind and stout enough to stand up to the wind. The wind is an issue. You can find lighter tripods for sure but if there is any wind your sight picture is going to shake. As a devout "light is right" disciple I had to learn this lesson the hard way too. Those carbon fiber jobs work great in the store but in the field they are just too wispy. The 3001BD is the lightest aluminum model that Bogen makes. I also like the clamp style adjustments. They are easy to operate, hold their position and hold up to years of abuse. The 3001BD weighs 4.2lbs and extends from 21 to 58 inches with the center post. You can also make the 3001BD lighter by removing the extendable center post. This is what I was using until just recently and I was very pleased with it.
Outdoorsmans Tripod($329)-This is sold by the folks at The Oudoorsmans in Phoenix. Although they sell a lot of the Manfrotto products, what they really wanted wasn't available on the market so they designed it and had it built from scratch not for photographers but for sheep and Coues hunters. This is a first rate tripod made from lightweight aluminum. It weighs 2.2lbs. and extends from 19 to 44 inches. It is not as beefy as the 3001BD but it is almost half the weight and sturdy enough to do the job especially if you hang a water bottle from the middle post. This is my current rig and I can't see how it could be made any better.
The Outdoorsman's was on a roll so they figured they would just go ahead and design their own head and I think it is the best out there. The Outdoorsmans Pistol Grip Ball Head ($129) is certainly the lightest at 12ozs and easiest to use for long periods of time compared to the Manfrotto 3265 pistol grip head ($99) that we had been using. The 3265 is nice but it is twice the size and weight of the Outdoorsmans model. Both models allow you to squeeze the trigger and move the head in any direction then let up on the trigger locking the head in that position.
While it is not my favorite, the Outdorsmans also offers a more traditional head design with up and down screw down knobs made by Jim White called the Fluid Head ($239). I have one, it weighs less than a pound, is very smooth and works very well. My brother uses it. I just prefer the Pistol Grip Ball Head.
Not to leave anything to chance, the Outdoorsmans also designed and built an adaptor that connects the binos to the head and thus the tripod. For the Swarovskis, Leicas, Zeiss and Nikon it is superior to all others that I have used. Basically you remove the distal end of the main hinge cap, and screw in a small post with a counter sinked divit all the way around it. The piece that attaches to the head unit has a horizontal hole in the top with a screw down mechanism on top. The post on the binos goes into the hole with a click then you screw down the knob for added security and you are all set. No muss, no fuss, on and off lickity split. It is a very slick system with positive engagement and lock down.
Everything discussed above works just as well with our Swarovski spotting scopes. It is a system with complete interchangability.
Everything discussed above works just as well with our Swarovski spotting scopes. It is a system with complete interchangability.
Whatever you buy, here a couple tips. Wrap the legs of the tripod in Camoform tape to keep things quiet and lo vis. You can get Camoform tape and alot of other goodies from the Tactical Tailor. Also, clean the telescoping portions of the legs periodically with a silicon rag. The dust and dirt will take a toll on their smooth operation. One last thing, no matter what you do, don't get up and walk away with your high dollar optics connected to your tripod. No matter how stable you think it is, Murphy will find a way to knock it over. Trust me.
Thanks.
Wade Nelson
Editor
Sorting through the fads and fashion of the outdoor equipment industry to identify and promote the very best wilderness gear for high end recreational users, backcountry professionals and government agencies.
Hardcore Outdoor is dedicated to those that can't or won't turn back.
Thanks.
Wade Nelson
Editor
Sorting through the fads and fashion of the outdoor equipment industry to identify and promote the very best wilderness gear for high end recreational users, backcountry professionals and government agencies.
Hardcore Outdoor is dedicated to those that can't or won't turn back.
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